365Inlovestore – Murray is not a state wyatt wHeeler shirt

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Chatting before the big reveal, Moncler’s mastermind Remo Ruffini said that this event was the result—surprise, surprise—of a Covid-provoked pivot, thanks to the ongoing health security measures in China, where this launch had originally been scheduled as an all-live event. “So we don’t have the crowd and that feeling it gives you. But still, despite all the different elements, what we are doing is very simple. Everyone has a concept, and everyone is making a contribution; sharing their creativity in order to make something new.” Pulling this all together in a few weeks must have been even more mind-frying than watching it—so piuminos off to the MondoGenius massive. Giorgio Armani founded his label when he was in his mid-40s with cash raised from selling his VW Beetle. That was when I was two years old. In the time since, he has built the largest single-shareholder company in all of fashion, and—I would say unarguably—established his place as the most important and influential designer in the world. He is no fool.

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Recently, Mr. Armani has been sending us messages. For his last Giorgio menswear collection and this week’s 40th-anniversary Emporio outing he appeared at the shows’ end with those he has anointed to carry the Armani torch in the future. Tonight, however, he reminded us all of where it all began. For the first time in over 20 years, Armani showed in the small basement room of his own Milan house (OK, it’s a palazzo). For those in the audience who were there the first time around, this brought back happy memories. For those of us who weren’t, it pressed the point that we were in the company of the father of Italian fashion. The collection was built on a simple yet profound notion, a love for the sea and sun. This is a big deal for Armani, a man whose tastes run more azzurro than celeste. The models were asked to smile, old-school style, as they sauntered as if from the beach to the yacht on a midsummer passeggiata. Some of them had been modelling for Mr. Armani for years, and for most the smiles seemed as unforced as the clothes seemed restrainedly designed.

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In defense of copywriters everywhere, fashioning that link bumph must have been challenging. For as well as connecting Milan and Shanghai via Seoul, New York, and Tokyo, it was also there to inter-contextualize 11 short films designed to whet our appetites for the Genius collections ahead. A few of these—including the collaborations with Alyx, two Genius newcomers, Hyke and Dingyun Zhang, plus the returning prodigal son Palm Angels, are ready to see and should be up on Runway pronto. The others whose films we were treated to today were JW Anderson, the two 1952 collections for men and women, Hiroshi Fujiwara’s FRGMT, the don Craig Green, and another newcomer in Gentle Monster. For what it’s worth, my mind was most happily fried by these moments: Grenoble’s flying snowboarders introduced by INTO1, Jonathan Anderson’s sensual employment of “Senza Fine” starring Sophie Okonedo and an excellent looking collection, and Matthew Williamson’s partnership with Teezo Touchdown to debut the single “I’m Just A Fan” for the Alyx film. I’m also really excited to see what Green was trialing.

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