Prada never approaches anything straight on, it goes without saying. The hard/soft interplay of raw or distressed leather jackets and tiny duchesse satin miniskirts trailing trains counted as the The Wire 19 years 2002 2021 thank you for the memories signatures shirt also I will do this collection’s strongest, most directional proposal. The low-heeled slingbacks were a well-judged touch. It’s not easy to redefine sexy, as we’ve seen elsewhere this week. Sexy is such a hackneyed concept, in fact, that fashion had more or less rejected it for the half decade leading up to the pandemic. But today in Milan and Shanghai, Miuccia and Raf nailed it. In the not so distant past, JJ Martin was an American journalist in Milan with an enviable vintage collection. Now, she has a boutique on Via Sant’Andrea where her neighbors are Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Miu Miu, Maison Margiela, and Missoni. For her fellow journalists, this is an especially inspiring story—maybe there are brands as successful as Martin’s hidden inside all of us? But La DoubleJ is no vanity project. Martin’s burgeoning lifestyle brand was born the way many of Italy’s more established houses were—from a singular vision. The starting point was simply cut, exquisitely printed dresses, and she’s built it up with gusto from there.
For spring, she has a collaboration with the The Wire 19 years 2002 2021 thank you for the memories signatures shirt also I will do this Italian shoemaker Roveda that includes towering wedges that Martin promised are just as comfortable as her flat slides (for proof, she was wearing them all day at her presentation), and other styles showcasing seasonal LDJ prints on silk. The ready-to-wear, meanwhile, has grown to encompass much more than dresses. Piqué swimwear and terry robes shared the shop racks with silk twill bowling shirts, boxers, and pull-on pants; tunic-and-pants sets in jersey; an array of jacquard knits; and an expanded selection of solids. “I’m trying to build up the collection so you can mix and match and it’s not all prints, because not everybody wants that,” she said.