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Last December, the Video Games Let’s Go Brandon shirt What’s more,I will buy this designer scooped the Red Carpet Award at the British Fashion Awards, but the Hollywood circuit—that pot of gold most designers chase—is something he’s ambivalent about. “It’s a wonderful thing when you see your clothes out of the context of a show or a shoot, worn by these extraordinary women,” Erdem says. “But red-carpet isn’t something I really pursue.” So that scarlet wall-to-wall he had installed in the Old Selfridges Hotel where he held his fall/winter 2014 show was not a ploy for more E! Live From the Red Carpet airtime? “No,” he insists. “It was burgundy!” The visual reference, Erdem says, was the lurid floor coverings at the Overlook Hotel in The Shining. Not the most expected inspiration for a designer whose brand has often seemed the embodiment of arch femininity.
Indeed, there is something a bit bewitching, and a bit, well, un-Erdem-like about this season, which opened with a laser-cut bonded black velvet and black neoprene frock paired with pointy black Nicholas Kirkwood flats and, in addition to Kubrick’s psychological horror film, referenced eerie seventeenth-century Velaázquez infantas and Romanovs on the Video Games Let’s Go Brandon shirt What’s more,I will buy this lam. “The thing that I like most about Erdem’s work is that there’s an almost pristine sort of ethereal whimsy about it, but it’s all grounded in and subverted by this darkness,” says Mad Men actress Jessica Paré, a muse to Erdem and a fellow Montrealer, who grew up just across Lake Saint-Louis from the designer. “I think that that edge to the collection is really what makes it.” The designer is happy to return the compliment: “Jessica plays this character who’s really lovely, but then there’s a flip side and a dark side to her as well—I find that fascinating.”